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This video explains how your radon mitigation system works, what maintenance it requires, and how to ensure it's functioning correctly to keep your home safe.
Radon mitigation systems are designed to significantly reduce radon gas and your risk for radon-induced lung cancer. This is done through two similar processes: Sub-Slab Depressurization (for homes with slab foundations) and Sub-Membrane Depressurization (for homes with crawlspaces).
Sub-slab depressurization (most common)
A suction pit or pits are created by drilling a hole through the basement floor or slab and removing approximately three five-gallon buckets of dirt. A pipe is inserted into the hole, extending through the home to an outdoor exhaust point where the gas is quickly diluted. A fan is installed on the pipe to create negative pressure beneath the slab, preventing radon from entering the home.
Sub-membrane depressurization (homes with crawlspaces)
This method is typically used in buildings with crawlspaces. A vapor barrier or membrane is installed on the crawlspace floor to prevent radon gas from seeping into the home. A pipe and fan are then installed to create negative pressure beneath the membrane, similar to the sub-slab depressurization method. The radon gas is drawn out and vented safely outside.
Your radon mitigation system requires very little maintenance. There are just two basic things to do:
You can perform some maintenance tasks, while others require our professional assistance. Checking the manometer, reattaching it if it were to fall off, listening for irregular noises, and keeping the system clear of debris are all tasks you can do. Replacing the fan, re-routing the pipes, and changing any of the components need to be done by us to maintain the warranty.

A manometer is a tool that measures how much air is flowing through your radon mitigation system. It’s the best and easiest way to tell if the system is running properly.

If the fluid levels in the manometer are even, the fan has stopped working.
If the above does not fix the issue, please contact us at 801-871-0715.
No. The system has a manometer that indicates how much air is flowing, but it does not provide the radon level. The radon level can be determined by using a short-term, long-term, or continuous test.
Yes. It is recommended to test your home one week after the installation and then every two years after that.
No. It is critical that you run the fan 24/7 to ensure radon gas isn’t entering your home.
The only ongoing expense of a radon mitigation system is the electricity used to power the fan. The cost depends on many factors like fan size, soil type, and the number of fans installed. For a typical one-fan system, the cost should be between $50 to $100 per year (about the same cost to run a 75-watt light bulb 24/7).
Your radon system includes two separate warranties:
Yes! The warranty is attached to the home, not the homeowner.
When considering the configuration of the discharge line for a radon system, the largest considerations are maximizing airflow and avoiding restrictions. For these reasons, it is not only acceptable but preferable to have the discharge line terminate straight up with no elbows or screens that could restrict the flow or lessen the system's effectiveness. Radon fans are designed to encounter moisture and water. They are designed with a sealed bearing system and are UL-approved for wet conditions. It is not uncommon for radon systems to both pull up water or moisture from beneath the slab and to have water drain down through the system from either rain or condensation in the winter months. These considerations are designed into the fan and will not lessen the life of the fan in any way.
Our knowledgeable staff can help answer any questions about your radon mitigation system.
Call us today at 801-871-0715. We’re open Monday to Friday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Our commitment is to always respond within one business day or less. We can't wait to chat with you!